MS Trollfjord Review March 2025

Built in 2002 and refurbished in 2023, MS Trollfjord is a standout ship in the Hurtigruten fleet. It accommodates 500 guests and seamlessly blends modern comfort with the charm of a traditional coastal cruiser.

Onboard, you’ll find a spacious Panorama 1893 Bar & Lounge, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows and serving handcrafted cocktails and Norwegian spirits. Accommodations range from cosy budget-friendly cabins to luxurious suites, along with three dining options showcasing authentic Norwegian cuisine. An expert expedition team is also onboard, providing lectures, guided shore excursions, and insights into Norway’s rich history, wildlife, and culture.

The smaller size of MS Trollfjord allows it to access remote ports that larger ships can’t reach, enabling a deeper and more personal exploration of Norway’s rugged coastline. The ship operates on the Svalbard Express and North Cape Express routes, highlighting Norway’s stunning fjords, Arctic landscapes, and cultural gems.

Brasserie Árran is open for lunch and dinner from 12 pm to 9 pm. Named after the Sámi word for fire in a Lavvu tent, it specialises in traditional Norwegian cuisine with a modern twist. The rustic décor creates a warm atmosphere, and the menu features small plates, hearty mains, and desserts – including specialities like king crab. Excellent service and great value make it one of my favourite dining spots onboard.

At the ship’s aft lies Flora, the main dining room. Breakfast and lunch are served buffet-style, while dinner is à la carte. The cuisine focuses on healthy, fresh, local ingredients with a strong Norwegian influence. The lunch buffets are delicious, even if I can’t pronounce some of the names!

I began my day early, flying from London Heathrow to Oslo. After arriving and meeting the rest of the group, we took a short train ride from the airport to the port – all arranged by Hurtigruten for our week onboard.

Once we stepped onto the ship, we took some time to explore and get settled. MS Trollfjord, renovated in 2023, features a design that beautifully blends retro charm with modern comfort, using local materials such as wood and stone that perfectly reflect the stunning Norwegian landscape.

After exploring the ship, we headed to the top deck for farewell drinks as we set sail from Oslo. We raised our glasses of champagne as we enjoyed the sunset, making our way toward Kristiansand. That evening, we dined in Flora, where I started with the best onion soup I’ve ever had. The buffet offered a wonderful variety of Norwegian cuisine – sautéed vegetables paired with lamb, reindeer, salmon, and halibut. Later, we headed to the 1893 Bar, where my favourite was The Oslo Mule, a refreshing blend infused with ginger.

I woke up in the sunny port of Kristiansand, excited for our Highlights of South Coast and South Cape tour. Our first stop was Skudeneset farm and vineyard, where we enjoyed a wine tasting and sampled the award-winning Sygna sparkling wine. We also met the winemaker’s wife at her basketry workshop, where she impressed us with her willow-weaving skills.

We visited Lindesnes Lighthouse at the South Cape of Norway, enjoying a light lunch of locally made sourdough bread, fresh fish cakes, moose sausages, and leg of lamb. One of my favourite memories was visiting Under, the world’s largest underwater restaurant. With a Michelin Star and a dining area 5.5 metres below sea level, it was a truly unique experience.

That evening, some of us dined at Røst, a restaurant inspired by the ancient fish banks of the Lofoten Islands. The menu featured seafood and coastal ingredients – reindeer, salmon, seaweed, Arctic pearls (vegan roe), and sea urchins. The sommeliers helped us pair the perfect wines, and we finished the night at Bar 1893.

The next morning, we arrived in Haugesund, a lovely town known for its Viking history and stunning coastal views. We took a shuttle bus from the ship into town and enjoyed a relaxed morning stroll, taking in the beautiful scenery before returning to the ship for a buffet-style lunch.

We spent the afternoon at the bar on Deck 9 while navigating through the fjords – the views were absolutely spectacular. That evening, we dined at Brasserie Árran, which quickly became one of our favourite spots onboard. My favourite meal was the reindeer soup as a starter and the beef burger as my main – both were perfect!

I woke up in the charming port of Ålesund, one of Norway’s most beautiful coastal cities, famous for its Art Nouveau architecture. We joined a Saga Island Bus Tour to Alnes, crossing incredible bridges and subsea tunnels to explore two of the main surrounding islands. We started at Giske Church, the birthplace of Viking chieftain Rollo, ancestor of William the Conqueror – before heading to the charming fishing village of Alnes and climbing the lighthouse for sweeping views at the top.

After another delicious buffet lunch at Flora, we took a tour of the ship’s cabins, suites, and amenities, before an à la carte dinner at Flora. I had cauliflower florets to start, followed by pork belly with jus, cabbage, and seasoned potatoes, lighter than I expected and absolutely fantastic. A chocolate brownie with berry jus finished the meal perfectly, all enjoyed against the backdrop of the sunset.

As the evening unfolded, we headed to the top deck, hoping to catch the northern lights. They only made a brief appearance – captured through cameras rather than the naked eye, but it was a magical night all the same.

Our next stop was Brønnøysund, a charming coastal town in central Norway with stunning fjord views. We explored the town, visited a lovely church, and found a small trail leading to a peaceful lake. Back onboard, I made the most of the spa and sauna, and enjoyed a wide selection of films in my cabin, a perfect afternoon of relaxation.

That evening, we watched the sunset from the top deck before an à la carte dinner at Flora; highlights included a creamy leek soup, a chickpea fritter on a bed of veggies, pork with crackling and rich gravy, and a cheese platter to finish.

After dinner, we headed back up for the Arctic Circle Ceremony, where we had to guess the time of the Arctic crossing. My colleague Claire made the closest guess, earning herself a ladle of ice cubes down her back from the captain, followed by a small glass of cloudberry wine. It was absolutely hilarious!

On our last full day, we visited two fantastic ports. First was Svolvær, the largest town in the Lofoten Islands, where we booked the Lofoten RIB & Sea Eagle Adventure. We zipped around the islands, passing charming islets and skerries only accessible by boat, and got up close to Sea Eagles with wingspans of up to 2.65 metres, remarkable!

After the RIB excursion, I squeezed in one last meal at Árran, reindeer soup and a beef burger, naturally. In the afternoon, we arrived at Stokmarknes, the birthplace of Hurtigruten, where the iconic coastal voyage first set sail in 1893 (that’s why the bar is called 1893!). We explored the Hurtigruten museum, checked out fascinating exhibitions and artefacts, and even visited the retired Finnmarken ship. Back onboard, a buffet dinner at Flora rounded off a fantastic final day. I couldn’t resist going back for seconds of the creamy risotto.

As you step onto the ship on Deck 4, a stunning Atrium greets you, with a grand staircase rising the full height of the vessel and a glass roof flooding the space with natural light. Glass-fronted lifts offer scenic views of the ship’s beautiful murals as you glide between decks.

Decks 3 to 7 feature a variety of accommodations, from inside cabins to suites, with the best views found in the upper-deck categories. Decks 5 and 8 serve as the main social hubs. Deck 5 is home to the lecture hall, Flora, Brasserie Árran, a hot drinks station, and the ship’s live King Crab tank (yes, real crabs!). Deck 6 boasts a wraparound promenade deck with breathtaking coastal views. Deck 8 is home to the Espolin Johnson Lounge, named after Norwegian artist Kaare Espolin Johnson, offering comfortable seating and spectacular scenery. Deck 9 houses the fitness gym, sauna, and lounge, with direct access to the outside deck and the designated smoking area.