Into The Wild - Alaska Cruise Review 2025
November 2025
A lifelong dream
For the past 15 years, one place has loomed larger in my mind than any other: Alaska. When my daughter was small, I’d put her to bed and spend the evenings watching Discovery Channel shows like Deadliest Catch and Ice Road Truckers. Then came Into the Wild – the story of Christopher McCandless, who set off on the adventure of all adventures, only to meet his fate in the Alaskan wilderness. There was Grizzly Man, too, which, despite its eccentricity and tragic ending, offered a raw glimpse of Alaska’s untamed wildlife and epic landscapes. No wonder they call it The Great Land.
I resolved that one day, I too would visit – though hopefully not share the fate of McCandless or Timothy Treadwell. But I did want a glimpse of what they had experienced. And so, in June, I made my way to Vancouver to begin a 9-night itinerary aboard Oceania Cruises’ Riviera. The route was perfectly pitched: Alaska cruise must-sees like Juneau and Ketchikan, paired with a few surprises along the way.
Vancouver
Vancouver itself is a worthy starting point for any Alaskan adventure. A cool, contemporary city with a scenic backdrop, a beautiful waterfront, and the artsy, slightly bohemian Granville Island – just a two-minute water taxi ride away. I spent two nights at the Hyatt in the city centre, which gave me time to adjust to the time difference and take a tour of Grouse Mountain and Capilano.
Bears!
While I’ll admit I’m not a fan of cable cars, they’re a necessary evil if you want to visit the brown bear sanctuary at the summit. Bears are perhaps Alaska’s most iconic wildlife attraction, but sightings are never guaranteed. Travelling in June meant the bears had not yet begun flocking to the rivers to feast on salmon, so the chances of wild encounters were lower. I reasoned that, at the very least, I’d leave the Pacific Northwest having seen one.
The Inside Passage
And so to Alaska – but not before a day sailing through British Columbia, heading towards the much-fabled Inside Passage. I’d slightly overestimated how well I’d adjusted to the time difference, so at around 4:30 am, I found myself wide awake, sitting out on the balcony and taking in my first glimpse of true wilderness. There was no doubt: this was what I’d come for.
An hour passed in near silence before fins began slicing through the still water – Pacific dolphins. My first taste of real wildlife, and I wasn’t even in Alaska yet.
The Inside Passage weaves through the islands and inlets of southeastern Alaska. Nearly every itinerary includes at least one day traversing it, and the views were breathtaking to say the least. Dense, emerald-green forests, snow-capped mountains, and – on the following morning – a belt of mist so thick it felt as if we’d crossed into some kind of mystical ether.
And then it happened.
It’s hard to explain what it’s like when you see your first whale. Even more so when that whale seems intent on putting on a show, leaping from the water at regular intervals as if to welcome you to his world. Like bears, whales are a cornerstone of any Alaska trip. By the end of the itinerary, I believe I’d seen around 15 different whales – sometimes five or six in a single day. I’ll say it confidently: they’re about as close to guaranteed as it gets.
Ketchikan: Alaska's First City
Fusing Indigenous heritage and frontier spirit, Ketchikan is proudly known as Alaska’s First City – often the first port of call as you sail north. Creek Street’s stilted houses and the towering totems at Saxman Village are among its most famous landmarks, but the small streets are just as rewarding for those with a curiosity for Native Alaskan art, gold-rush lore, and, of course, local brewing – something I put to a thorough test throughout my time in the region.
If I had one recommendation, it would be to visit the D’s Fish & Chip Shack. You’ll have the best fish and chips you’ve ever tasted – and that’s coming from someone who’s had more than their fair share of the British version.
Docking at Ward Cove East – Ketchikan’s impressive new cruise terminal – we joined a guided hike through the Tongass National Forest before heading into the city. It wasn’t quite as strenuous or wild as I might have hoped, but it was a gentle introduction to the kind of wilderness I’d come looking for. Bonus points to our guide, who came armed with bear spray—a sure sign they might be nearby.
The forest itself is lush and primaeval, with towering cedars, dense undergrowth, and thick moss carpeting everything in sight. Along the trail, tree trunks were lined with bite marks – clear evidence that bears had been around. Another promising sign… but no luck this time.
